In the world of horology, where timepieces are more than just instruments of precision, the collaboration between Fears and Andrew Morgan is a fascinating tale. This partnership has given birth to the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Ultimus', a watch that blends vintage charm with modern innovation, and marks the end of an era for the Brunswick Jump Hour collection.
A Sentimental Farewell
The Brunswick Jump Hour, a symbol of Fears' identity, is bidding adieu. This model, developed with Christopher Ward, has been a flagship for the brand since its launch in 2023. Its unique jump hour mechanism and the Brunswick case have left an indelible mark on the industry.
The 'Ultimus': A Modern Twist on Vintage
What makes the 'Ultimus' stand out is its bold fusion of historical influences and contemporary design. The 1920s Art Deco inspiration is evident in the onion-shaped crown and the overall aesthetic, but the dial takes this to a new level. The monochromatic display and the gradient surrounding the hour disk pay homage to early 20th-century pocket watches and wristwatches, respectively. Yet, the use of modern materials like sapphire crystals and lumed ceramic gives it a unique, contemporary twist.
Dial Design: A Study in Contrast
The dial is a masterpiece in itself. The black minute hand against the textured luminous ceramic surface creates a striking contrast. The minute track, partially obscured by the semi-transparent frosted surface, adds a layer of depth and intrigue. And then there's the magnifying window at 12 o'clock, a first for the Brunswick collection, which offers a unique view of the jump hour display. This watch truly comes alive in low light, transforming into a radiant blue display, showcasing the beauty of luminescence.
Technical Specifications
Under the hood, the 'Ultimus' is powered by the reliable Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module, based on the Sellita SW200. With automatic winding, 25 jewels, and a 38-hour power reserve, it offers a balance of performance and efficiency. The customized automatic rotor, decorated with the 'Bristol Flower', adds a touch of craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Strap and Bracelet Options
The 'Ultimus' can be paired with either an 'obsidian black' Epsom calf leather strap or a Brunswick 5-link stainless steel bracelet. Both options offer a unique look and feel, catering to different preferences and styles.
A Fitting Finale
While it's surprising to see the Brunswick Jump Hour come to an end, this collaboration with Andrew Morgan seems like a fitting finale. Andrew Morgan's talent for modern timepiece design is evident, and his collaboration with Christopher Ward on 'The Red One' further solidifies his reputation. This watch is a testament to the power of independent watch brands and the creativity they bring to the industry.
Availability and Pricing
The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Ultimus' will be available for a limited time, from August 10th to August 17th, 2026. The price is set at £4,450 for the strap version and £4,750 for the bracelet version.
Final Thoughts
The 'Ultimus' is more than just a watch; it's a piece of art, a fusion of history and innovation. It's a testament to the skill and creativity of independent watchmakers and a fitting tribute to the Brunswick Jump Hour collection. Personally, I think this collaboration has produced a true masterpiece, and I can't wait to see what the future holds for both Fears and Andrew Morgan.
